| The
lighting on Long Island Sound varies seasonally and even
daily, guaranteeing an ever-changing array of scenery along the Long
Island and Connecticut shores. By early Autumn, most of the Summer
steam is gone, but Indian Summer weather brings warm hazy afternoons
before the palpable chill that comes around sunset, inching earlier and
earlier every day. Leaving Orient Point at the tip of Long Island’s
North Fork, it is certainly warm enough to sit outside on the top deck
of the ferry “Cape Henlopen”, a converted World War II landing craft,
now boasting a capacity for 90 cars and 900 passengers. On this
weekday, there are maybe several dozen cars and about a hundred
passengers. An affluent obviously New Yorkish couple standing next to
me, loaded down with booty from their visits to North Fork wineries, is
getting a head start on the watching the leaves turn; their ferry
ride is a waterborne segment off their trip to New Hampshire to watch
the leaves turn colors, two weeks ahead of Connecticut, while visiting
their daughter at Dartmouth.
On
this particular afternoon, the moist air has turned the sky into a
palette of grays. A clearly bluish hue prevails above the horizon and a
deeper blue, smattered with steely tinges interspersed with the
glinting sunlight, is below. The line demarcating the sky and the Sound
is a murky brownish band. On a crispy day, more typically later in the
season when the leaves turn, we could see land, there would be towns
with steeples and radio towers. But, today, as we set out from Orient
Point, some 16 miles southwest of our landfall in New London,
Connecticut, our destination is 90 minutes away, somewhere within that
brown murk. Plum Island, a quarantined compound where the USDA develops
vaccines against infectious food diseases, looms ominously on the right
as we move into open water and approach full speed, 12 knots.
The
Connecticut shoreline, now beginning to emerge out of the muddy band
that is the horizon, was settled in the 1630’s and 1640’s as the
English colonies spread southward from Massachusetts. The Connecticut
River, with its mouth at what is now Old Saybrook, was the focal point
of a burgeoning fur trade for both the English and the Dutch who were
moving east from their stronghold at New Amsterdam (now New York). The
local Indian tribes, the Pequots (actually part of the better known
Mohegan tribe) and Nehantics were ultimately vanquished in the
frequent skirmishes that occurred. By the early 1700’s, the towns of
Old Saybrook, Madison, and Guilford, were linked on land by the Boston
Post Road (now Route 1) and, more importantly, by water routes skirting
the coastline. During the 1800’s, an active coastal trade flourished
here. About halfway across Long Island Sound, almost eerily calm on
this languid day, we will be able to pick some of the towns out of the
haze, according to the old salts on the bridge.
The
crew on “Cape Henlopen”, led by Captain First Needhisname, have
the benefit of a sophisticated radar and GPS system, precise to
under 100 feet. The sailors navigating the Connecticut coast in
the 1800’s were guided by church steeples and by lighthouses, some of
which are visible today from the top deck just alongside the boat’s
huge yellow funnel. Captain Needhisname, with Long Island Ferry since
the mid 1970’s, points his hand towards a spot still in the haze when I
ask him where to look for lighthouses- many of which were built in the
1800’s. A few minutes later, the Saybrook Breakwater Lighthouse, built
in 1886, is visible off our port (left) bow. Captain Needhisname tells
me that on a clear day, it is possible to see the 40 foot tall beacon
dating from 1802 at Faulkner’s Island, off the coast of Guilford,
halfway between New Haven and New London. On the homestretch of
our ride, we veer further north, almost into Fisher’s Island Sound
and make our turn up to the Thames River, the Sound’s
oldest lighthouse (originally built in the 1760’s) looms on the
precipice of the craggy western bank.
Our
final leg to the ferry dock just south of the State Pier reveals two
more lighthouses- this time on the starboard (right) side.
Perhaps the most distinctive lighthouse, rumored to be haunted by
the ghost of an old keeper, looks like a small chateau circa 1909
perched on the rocks of New London Ledge. The Avery Point
Lighthouse, on the grounds of what is now the University of
Connecticut, now inactive but originally built in the 1940’s as a
training site for the U.S. Coast Guard, stands a dignified watch over
the eastern tip at the mouth of the Thames. Farther off to the east
across Fisher’s Island Sound, on clearer days, the
Stonington Light, against the backdrop of the bluffs of Watch Hill,
Rhode Island, is easily visible before the final thrust up the Thames.
Note to
Editors: The idea above, tied to
East End Long Island / Connecticut Shoreline, could be readily modified
(with some logical alterations) to describe another locale, for example
the towns of the North Shore (Manchester, Marblehead, Gloucestor and
Cape Ann), Southern New Jersey (Cape May- that other Avalon), or
Northern Delaware (Lewes – Rehobeth – Bethany Beach – Dewey Beach). The
Outer Banks, the islands of the Low Country (Mrs. Siddons, are you
online?), or even some of those barrier spits along the coasts of
Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana or Texas could also be fitted
into the template. Our, with more imagination, to the outskirts of San
Diego, Los Angeles/ Long Beach (that original Avalon), Santa Barbara,
Frisco/ Bay Area or even Portland, Ore and the Puget Sound environs.
For an edgy approach to upscale travel writing, see The
Nauticalian.
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